Freeze protection for the coming winter

What an unusual year this has been. We were pummeled last spring with freeze damage, and now we are well into November and—as of the writing of this column—there has not yet been a freeze.

Last spring many deciduous trees and shrubs sustained damage, some resulting in death to the entire system. There are some things gardeners can do to mitigate freeze damage and prepare for this winter’s weather.

• Wood that has not resumed growth by this time likely will not resume growth in the future, and the tissue is dead. Remove limbs that were damaged. Prune any dead or damaged tissue. Make pruning cuts completely to the origin of the branch or the trunk.

• Once dead tissues have been removed, shape existing branches. Plants that have resumed growth may have straggly new growth. This unsightly wood can now be shaped for next year’s growth.

• Cutting dead branches to their origin may encourage a flush of young shoots. Tender shoots need to be heavily mulched in anticipation of the coming freezes.

• When unwanted growth is removed, young shoots will have exposure to light. The light is critical in new cell growth that strengthens existing tissues. However, young shoots that are weak and spindly now will remain so next year; cut these back all the way to the origin.

• Vigorous shoots can be saved for next year’s wood; retain the strongest, most robust shoots. Allow these to grow and overwinter, but heavily mulch tender young growth.

• Wait until next spring to fertilize. When growth resumes in the spring, fertilize with weak applications of nitrogen.

• Keep root systems moist but not soggy wet.

The most important step has been saved for the last. Before a hard freeze is expected, water root systems deeply. Water is an insulator. The day before a hard freeze is expected deep water roots; root systems in dry soil are damaged worse in cold temperatures. Damage sustained in last year’s deep freeze may have been exacerbated because root systems were too dry. Moist soils stay warmer than dry soils, and fully hydrated plant cells better withstand freezes than dessicated cells. Water when temperature reaches 40° F, a temperature at which water can be absorbed by the roots.

Ellen Peffley Harp, a retired professor of horticulture at Texas Tech University, writes about gardening for several Texas newspapers.

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