Living or dead? Check your weatherchallenged trees and shrubs first

Even though we are well into spring, concerns are still being raised about the severely damaged trees and shrubs following our harsh late winter. Many folks wondering what to do about the apparent damage to their trees and shrubs.

Consider our last 12 months: severe drought last summer, still lingering even after the heavy rains last week; warm autumn and early winter months kept tree and shrub systems out of full dormancy; then the February winter wallop, where sub-zero temperatures lasted for over a week. Here we are at the end of May and still unsure of the fate of many of our trees.

Some trees, shrubs and perennial plants made it fine through the freeze and they have taken off as if nothing but normal had happened. Trees that were in full dormancy survived the freezes with minimal or no damage, deciduous and evergreen trees like oaks, cedars and juniper. But other plant systems did not fare as well.

It has been several weeks since our last freeze, and we have had excellent growing weather. In that time some trees and shrubs have resumed growth, while others are stubbornly bare. Does this mean the tree or shrub is dead? Not necessarily.

Before getting out the power saws, loppers and pruners, check the base of the tree or shrub.

Indicators that a plant is dead: tissues that are dry and brittle are not living; tissues that are green and supple, that bend easily without breaking are living. Dead trunk tissue will be dry; dry branches are dead.

Closely inspect the systems with confirmed dead upper tissue. If new growth is putting out from the base, this means that, while the upper growth froze to the ground, the crown and root system remained viable.

If this describes your plant system, the plant can be salvaged. Cut back these plants to several inches above the soil line. There likely are several new shoots. If the plant system is a shrub or bush, let the new growth replace the shoots killed by the freeze. If the plant system is a tree, select the strongest and cut back the non-living trunk or trunks as close as possible to the soil line. The surviving shoot or shoots can be trained as replacement trunks.

A positive parting thought: soil and plants are rejoicing over our recent rains!